Sunset at Beijing Summer Palace
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上海外滩

外滩,位于上海市中心区的黄浦江畔,它是上海的风景线,是到上海观光的游客必到之地。外滩又名中山东一路,全长约1.5
公里。东临黄浦江,西面为哥特式、罗马式、巴洛克式、中西合壁式等52幢风格各异的大楼,被称为“万国建筑博览群”。

外滩历史

1840年以后,上海作为五个通商口岸之一,开始对外开放。1845年英国殖民主义者抢占外滩,建立了英租界。1849年,法国
殖民者也抢占外滩建立了法租界。自此到20世纪40年代初,外滩一直被英租界和法租界占据,并分别被叫作“英租界外滩”和
“法兰西外滩”。公共租界的工部局和法租界的公董局分别为它们的最高市政组织和领导机构。
 
租界俨然是一个主权区,西方列强以他们的方式经营、管理。建设租界,外滩就成了租界最早建设和最繁华之地。早期的外滩
是一个对外贸易的中心,这里洋行林立,贸易繁荣。从19世纪后期开始,许多外资和华资银行在外滩建立,这里成了上海的
“金融街”,又有“东方华尔街”之称。
  
于是,外滩成了一块“风水宝地”。在外滩拥有一块土地,不仅是财富的象征,更是名誉的象征。商行、金融企业在外滩占有一
席之地后,即大兴土木,营建公司大楼。外滩的建筑大多经过三次或三次以上的重建,各国建筑师在这里大显身手,使面积不
算大的外滩集中了二十余幢不同时期、不同国家、不同风格的建筑,故外滩又有“万国建筑博览”之称。
A Guide to The Bund, Shanghai (Waitan, 上海外滩) - Sights, Food, Drink and Map
The Bund: (simplified Chinese: 外滩; traditional Chinese: 外灘; pinyin:
Wàitān).

Coming to Shanghai and missing the Bund is like visiting Beijing and
bypassing
the Forbidden City or the Great Wall. Once a muddy towpath
for boats along the Huangpu River, the Bund was where the foreign
powers that entered Shanghai after the Opium War of 1842 erected
their distinct Western-style banks and trading houses. From here
Shanghai grew into Asia's leading city in the 1920s and 1930s, a
cosmopolitan and thriving commercial and financial center. Many of the
awesome colonial structures you see today date from that prosperous
time and have become an indelible part of Shanghai's cityscape.

Today, a wide avenue fronts the old buildings while a raised promenade
on the east side of the road affords visitors pleasant strolls along the
river and marvelous views of both the Bund and Pudong across the
river. Pudong's new skyscrapers and modern towers -- constituting
Shanghai's "21st Century Bund" -- may dominate today's skyline, but
the city's core identity and history are strictly rooted in this unique strip
on the western shore. For years, the Bund was the first sight of
Shanghai for those arriving by boat; it should be your first stop as well.

History: The Bund (Waitan) is one of the most recognizable
architectural symbols of Shanghai. "Bund" derives from an Anglo-Indian
word for an embankment along a muddy waterfront and that is what it
was in the beginning when the first British company opened an office
there in 1846. Located on the west bank of a bend in the Huangpu
River and just south of Suzhou Creek, the Bund became the site of
some of the earliest foreign settlements after Shanghai was opened as
one of five "Treaty Ports" in the Treaty of Nanjing that ended the Opium
War in 1842 (The Treaty of Nanjing also ceded Hong Kong Island to
Great Britain). Because of its proximity to the Yangtze (Changjiang)
River--the path into central China, Shanghai grew rapidly as the
economic center of foreign interests.

Jardine Matheson & Company bought its first land here in 1848 and the
river front soon became vital to the interests of the entire foreign
settlement. In the latter 19th early 20th century the Bund became the
financial and political center of the international community and (indeed
of much of China). It was China's Wall Street, as Shanghai's financial
market became the third largest in the world (behind London and New
York). Nearby were located a number of important consulates, including
the British, American, Russian and Japanese.  

Essentials: Stretching for 1.6km (1 mile) along the western edge of
the Huangpu River, the Bund runs from Suzhou Creek in the north to
Jinling Lu in the south. On the west side of the main avenue
(Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu) that runs along the Bund are the colonial
edifices of yore, while the eastern side is taken by the Bund
Promenade, a raised embankment that acts as a dike against the
Huangpu River, because downtown itself, situated on a soggy delta, is
slowly sinking below the river level. The Bund is pleasant to stroll at any
hour but is often crowded with tourists and vendors selling snacks and
souvenirs. Early mornings see tai chi practitioners and ballroom
dancers out in force. Early to mid-morning on weekdays is best for
avoiding the crowds and for photography. If possible, try to return here
at night when the Bund buildings are all aglow. Construction of a vehicle
tunnel under the main street Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, leaving much of
the Bund for pedestrian traffic, is expected to finish by the end of March
in time for the 2010 Shanghai World Expo.

Exploring the Bund: The highlights of the Bund are undoubtedly
the colonial-era buildings lining the west side of Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu,
standouts of which include
the former British Consulate, Customs
House
, former Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank, and Fairmont
Peace Hotel Shanghai
.

Besides its landmark colonial architecture, however, the Bund has a few
other small attractions. On its north end, Suzhou Creek enters the
Huangpu River beneath the 18m-wide (59-ft.) iron
Waibaidu Bridge,
built in 1906 to replace the original wooden toll bridge constructed in
1856 by an English businessman. In early 2008, the bridge was
dismantled for repairs and to facilitate the construction of an
underground vehicle tunnel, but should be restored in early 2009. On
the river shore now stands a granite obelisk,
Monument to the
People's Heroes
, erected in 1993, and dedicated to Chinese patriots
beginning in the 1840s.
The Bund History Museum (9am-4:15pm;
free admission), which contains a few artifacts and some interesting
photographs of the Bund stands at its base, but at press time, the
museum was closed for renovation. Just south of the monument, at
street level, is the park
Huangpu Gongyuan (6am-6pm in winter, until
10pm in summer; free admission), originally the British Public Gardens
built in 1868. In the early days, only Chinese servants accompanying
their foreign masters were allowed to enter the park. Dogs were also
prohibited, leading in later years to the apocryphal NO CHINESE OR
DOGS ALLOWED sign being attributed to the park. The park was
eventually opened to Chinese in 1926. South of here, across from the
Peace Hotel, is the entrance to the pedestrian
Bund Sightseeing
Tunnel
(Waitan Guanguang Suidao; 8am-10:30pm, to 10pm Nov-Apr;
admission ¥50/$7.15/£3.60 round-trip, ¥40/$5.70/2.85 one-way) located
under the Huangpu. Complete with tram cars and light show, the tunnel
connects downtown Shanghai to the Pudong New Area and the Oriental
Pearl TV Tower. Also here is a statue of
Chen Yi, Shanghai's first
mayor after 1949 and a dead ringer for Mao Zedong, at least in bronze.
Farther south down the Bund Promenade are scores of vendors, a few
restaurants, and excellent overlooks facing the river. Near the southern
end of the promenade are the docks for the Huangpu River cruises.
You'll also notice a picturesque Signal Tower, a slender round brick
tower that served as a control tower for river traffic during colonial days.
First built in 1884, the tower was rebuilt in 1907, and also relayed
weather reports. In 1993 during the widening of Zhongshan Lu, it was
moved 20m (66 ft.) to its current site.
The Bund at night_Shanghai
Fountain at the Bund Shanghai
外滩建筑今昔

1号,现为中国太平洋保险公司总部所在地,原名亚细亚大楼,建于1913年,是英商亚细亚火油公司在上海成立的办事处。
史称“外滩第一高楼”,底段与上段都是巴洛克式造型,中段为现代主义建筑风格,是上海高层建筑中最年长的建筑。

2号,现为东风饭店,曾是上海最豪华的俱乐部——上海总会。有“东洋伦敦”之称,设计上仿效英国古典主义,也参照日本帝
国大厦。三角形电梯是西门子公司制造,已有90余年的历史。有一条110多英尺的吧台,号称远东最长的吧台。
  
3号,现名有利大楼,原名联合大楼,属于美国有利银行所有,现为新加坡佳通投资有限公司所在地。1916年建成,是上海
第一幢钢结构大楼,钢材来自德国。
  
5号,现属华夏银行,原为日本日清公司大楼,是日本近代西洋建筑与古典建筑风格相结合的产物,外立面采用花岗石,建于
1921年。
  
6号,现属香港侨福国际企业有限公司,原为中国通商银行大楼。外墙采用花岗石贴面,英国哥特式建筑风格,19世纪末20
世纪初外滩的典型建筑。

7号,现为泰王国驻上海总领事馆和泰国盘谷银行上海分行所在地,原为大北电报公司大楼,1907年建成。
  
9号,轮船招商总局大楼,建于1901年,盛宣怀投资白银220万两。
  
10—12号,现为浦东发展银行所在地,原为香港上海汇丰银行上海分行所在地,建于1923年。三扇青铜大门和两旁的铜狮
子,由英国专门铸造,据说铸成后立刻将铜模毁掉,狮子成为绝版珍品。底层中部突出一个八角形门厅,由此进入宽敞的营
业大厅。门厅的顶部有8幅彩色马赛克镶拼成的壁画,分别描绘了20世纪初上海、香港、伦敦、巴黎、纽约、东京、曼谷、
加尔各答等8大城市的建筑风貌。画旁有文字“四海之内皆兄弟”。此楼耗资800万两白银,被誉为“从苏伊士运河到白令海峡最
考究的建筑”。
  
13号,现为海关大厦,是汇丰银行大楼的姊妹楼,建于1927年,仿造美国国会大厦的大钟制造,在美国造好后到上海组装,
此楼楼外立面的大钟为亚洲第一大钟,世界最著名的大钟之一,每逢整点奏威斯敏斯特报时曲。
  
15号,现为中国外汇交易中心,原为华俄道胜银行大楼,1902年竣工。
  
16号,现属招商银行,原为台湾银行大楼。台湾银行原为日商银行,是台湾沦为日本殖民地之后,日本在台北开设的,1911
年又在上海设立分行。抗战胜利后,国民党政府将台湾银行划归中国农业银行上海分行所有。
  
17号:现为友邦保险大楼,原为《字林西报》大楼,是上海第一幢高层建筑。《字林西报》创刊于1850年,是英国人办的一
张英文日报,也是在上海开设最大的新闻出版机构。《字林西报》起初只是一份4 页的英文周报,刊登商贾行情、船期航班
等交通信息,后因时常刊登英租界当局的文告、新闻公报,被称为租界工部局的喉舌。1951年停刊。大楼室内白色大理石地
坪,黑色大理石墙面,金色马赛克穹庐顶,十分气派。
  
18号:建于1923年,是一栋有着84年历史的市级经典保护建筑,位于外滩南京东路口,原名麦加利银行的外滩十八号楼,曾
是英国渣打银行驻中国的总部,建于一九二三年。自一九五五年渣打银行迁址以来,历经多家单位使用。
      修复后的外滩十八号楼进门四根古希腊式的大理石柱是原装,谜一般地来自二百年前意大利的教堂。两盏量身定做的
三米高红色玻璃吊灯,全部由空心玻璃管组装而成,每盏灯由一百八十五个零件拼装起来。大堂璀璨耀眼的二十四K金砖马塞
克壁画是全手工制作。其被打造成为国际知名时装、珠宝、名表、美食、娱乐、艺术中心。
  
19、20号:现为和平饭店,分为南楼和北楼,南楼原为汇中饭店大楼,北楼原为华懋(mào)饭店大楼。汇中饭店是上海现
存最古老饭店之一,1854年建造,是上海最豪华的旅馆。 1906年翻新,翻新时,旧中国第一次在建筑物内安装电梯,1965
年改为和平饭店南楼;华懋饭店由地产大亨沙逊投资,又名沙逊大厦,被誉为“远东第一楼”,1956年改为和平饭店北楼。
  
23号,现属中国银行,具有中国民族特色的建筑。
 
24号,现属中国工商银行,为老沙逊洋行行址。
  
26号,现为中国农业银行上海分行所在地,原为扬子保险公司大楼。
  
27号,现为外贸总公司大楼,原属英商怡和洋行。怡和洋行,1872年创办于广州,是英国最早进入中国的贸易商行。
  
29号,现属光大银行,原为东方汇理银行大楼。
  (
注:门牌号均为中山东一路门牌号)
外滩部分景点介绍

黄浦公园

  曾记载着“华人与狗不得入内”屈辱历史的黄浦公园,是上海最早的欧式花园,始建于1886年,她是外滩百年沧桑的见证
人。如今,上海人民英雄纪念塔屹然挺立,塔底免费开放的外滩历史纪念馆是一部中华民族百年的奋斗史。 上海市人民英
雄纪念塔:坐落在曾经是“华人与狗不得入内”的黄浦公园内,给人以深刻的思索,三块枪状塔体,寓意鸦片战争、五四运
动、解放战争以来光荣牺牲的先烈永垂不朽,内涵有深刻的概括性。 浦江潮:位于黄浦公园南大门内,它是大型青铜人像
雕塑。一位身躯伟岸的工人,扬着风帆迎向袭来的巨浪,奋勇搏击。形象而动感强烈,表现出无产阶级力量无比,不畏艰
险,勇敢前进,气吞山河的大无畏精神。作品主题是表彰上海工人阶级在革命和建设事业中的光辉业绩。 上海百年风云大
型花岗石浮雕:位于黄浦公园下沉式圆岛上,浮雕全长120米,高3.8 米。浮雕以写实的手法撷取具有典型意义的历史事
件,表现了从1840年至1949年间上海人民的革命斗争。两翼为装饰性的花环图案,象征着上海人民对革命先烈的缅怀。浮
雕可分为七组,97个典型人物,表现了先烈们伟大的斗争业绩。
  
外白渡桥

  闻名中外的外白渡桥(Garden Bridge of Shanghai )是旧上海的标志性建筑之一。处于苏州河下游河口,位于黄浦公
园西侧,架在中山东一路,东大名路之间的苏州河河段上。是一座全钢结构的桥梁,两跨52.16米,宽18.3米,是上海市区
连接沪北、沪东的重要通道,过桥人流量和车流量很高。

十六铺

   小东门原名“宝带门”,门外为十六铺。街市东临黄浦江,西濒丹凤路,南达老太平弄,北至龙潭路,历史上南侧曾延伸至万豫
码头街。此处依水傍城,是上海的水上门户。

外滩城市雕塑群

  城市的美应有三个组成部分:建筑、雕塑和绿化。而城市雕塑又被称为"城市眼睛",是美化城市的重要部分。外滩城市
雕塑群由" 浦江之光"、"帆"、"风"三座不锈钢雕塑组成,位于金陵东路外滩绿色长廊中,在阳光下熠熠生辉。"浦江之光"造型
别具一格,用竖向的水波和水珠形象组合,如五线谱上跳跃音符,以轻松欢快的旋律,演奏上海母亲河黄浦江的乐曲。"帆"
表现黄浦江上帆樯林立,船队正驶向各地,外汇与旅游业在这条经济之河中流淌;帆与帆的连接,多曲线的漂动,增加了立
体动感。"风"以锐角和钝角、弧线和折线,褶皱波动表现改革东风劲吹,气象万千。
  
陈毅广场

  十里南京路尽头的陈毅广场,新中国第一任上海市市长陈毅的塑像昂然矗立。陈毅塑像坐北朝南,用青铜浇注,高5.6米,
底座用红色磨光花岗石砌成,高3.5米,塑像再现了陈毅同志视察工作时的典型姿态,显示他一路风尘,勤勤恳恳的公仆形
象,又有和蔼可亲,虚怀若谷的儒将风度。每逢周末,在塑像前都将举行隆重热烈的广场音乐会。陈毅广场涌泉:位于南京
东路外滩,陈毅塑像南面。它的造型是外周正方,内圈椭圆的现代化喷水池。水柱随着声音喷射,时高时低,池底安装了彩
色的光源,夜晚随着灯光的变换,条条水柱辉映出红,黄,蓝,绿的光束,为外滩增添了瑰丽的夜景。
  
外滩观光隧道

  
  外滩观光隧道位于浦西南京东路外滩与浦东陆家嘴东方明珠之间,是我国第一条越江行人隧道,全长646.70米,2000
年底竣工。建成后,隧道的两岸出入口由自动扶梯输送旅客,残疾人采用液压电梯输送,隧道内采用九十年代国际先进的全
自动、无人驾驶、牵引式封闭车厢输送游客,箱体美观、舒适、轻颖、透明度高,整个过江时间约需 2.5~5分钟,其运输能
力最高可达5280人/小时。同时,隧道还利用空间,运用现代高科技手段,在隧道内演示反映人物、历史、文化、科技、风
景等各种图案、景象及背景音乐,使过江过程带有极强的趣味性、娱乐性和刺激性,给游客留下美好的记忆。
外滩美食

虽然外滩对于上海人已经是熟得不能再熟的地方,可是外滩还是值得一去,那毕竟是上海最美的角落之一。当然扎在人堆里
添乱实在是很土的玩法,比较舒服的做法是找个视野好的地方吃点喝点,看外滩但别让人看你。

论视野,浦东的金茂大厦的凯悦酒店自然是首选,这是上海最高贵的酒店,以高和贵著称。和大多数五星级酒店一样,凯悦
的中餐厅乏善足陈,比外面更为昂贵的鲍翅参肚并不能给人留下太多印象,但56楼的意大利菜和日本料理倒真是不错,54楼
的西餐也挺可以。凯悦还拥有上海最高的酒吧,53楼的玲珑吧以马提尼酒著称,而钢琴吧则有很宽大麂皮沙发和流水般的琴
声。还有87楼的酒廊,在这个高度俯瞰的夜幕下的外滩和黄浦江,那种迷人的感受是很难向没有体验的人表达的。这里的食
物和酒价不菲,但比起排了队参观88楼观光厅或是爬东方明珠,要雍容自在多了。

当然,欣赏美丽的外滩夜色并不非要付出如此高昂的代价,况且凯悦也会有人满为患的时候,此时金陵路外滩的钻石楼不失
为一个好的选择。在这幢奇特三角形建筑的五楼是一家西餐厅,供应百元以下但口味极佳的牛排和颇为醇厚的红酒。尤其让
人高兴的是那个临江的露天平台,醉人的浦江夜色无论佐餐下酒,都堪称妙品。在风和日丽的下午,这里同样是晒太阳看风
景的好地方,但如果太冷或是太热,我就转移到延安路外滩的“真锅”。这家极具规模的连锁咖啡馆与“星巴克”相比,在发掘
不同品种咖啡豆的个性上,却更为考究和细致。作为日本咖啡道的传播者,它向我们展示了“牙买加蓝山”、“印第斯山翡翠”
这样的咖啡极品,而极具水准的鲍鱼海鲜酥皮汤更是在专业餐馆也难以尝到的美味。在落地长窗前品啜咖啡,看江鸥在蓝天
白云间盘旋(北苏州河一期改造工程的福),转眼间就到了晚饭时间。

外滩十六铺有着全上海最好的本帮饭馆“德兴馆”,这家百年老店在上海的众多分店中只有三四家是真的,其余只属于“德兴面
馆”。后者也有象焖蹄这样极具水准的作品,但最好最正宗的本帮菜,还是要到真正的“德兴馆”,特别是外滩的总店。“虾子
大乌参” 是“德兴馆”的看家菜,有“天下第一参”之称。从前“老饭店”做这个菜也很拿手,但近年来大不如前,只有让德兴馆专
美了。红烧鲴鱼也是本帮名馔,可惜清明已过,非时勿食,这几天还是来个冰糖甲鱼解解馋吧。“草头圈子”和“糟钵头”一红
一白,都是很传统的本帮菜,喜欢的朋友不妨尝一尝
上海外滩交通线路:

二号线:南京東路站、42、49、65、251、33、37
Where to Eat on the Bund:

  • The Cupola in “Three on the Bund”:
  In the neoclassic shopping paradise “Three on the Bund”, you can
find three of the city’s best restaurants: the world famous Jean-
Georges Vongerichten’s “
Jean Georges” (4/F Three On the Bund,
021-6321 7733), the “
Whampoa Club” (5/F Three on the Bund, 021-
6321-3737) Jereme Leung’s modern interpretation of traditional
Shanghai cuisine, and Australian chef David Laris’ “
Laris” (6/F Three
on the Bund, 021-6321 9922). The pinnacle of them all, however, is a
small tower off the imposing building with two exclusive, private dining
rooms. Not only a luxurious haven, but a jewel in the culinary crown.
Whether the dining room with space for eight, or the room for two, both
have a glorious view of the city and the service does not let you down
either. Diners can select from either prix fixe menus or an a la Carte
menu from any of the three luxury restaurants in “Three on the Bund”.

  • Shanghai's grand dame of world-class Continental dining
M on  the Bund (7/F, 5 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, Huangpu District,
Shanghai; 021-6350-9988; www.m-restaurantgroup.com), for its
glamorous rooftop setting and Bund and riverfront views.

  • Bund 18:
   Bund18's signature Chinese restaurant, Tan Wai Lou (5th fl.,
Bund18, 18 Zhongshan Dong Yi Rd., Huangpu) serves up nouveau-
Cantonese cuisine in a refined setting.  

  • Sun with Aqua
Japanese
2/F, 6 on the Bund, Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu
6339 2779

  • Bonomi Café (Bund)  
Rm 226 12 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu (on the Bund)
6329 7506
Twenty-two buildings of the Bund with their original designations
M on the Bund_5 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu
Laris_The signature restaurant of star Australian chef David Laris
Architecture and Buildings