-
Exploring the Water Villages – Excursions from Shanghai
Posted on February 27th, 2010 12 comments
Many of the Water Villages near Shanghai are picturesque canal towns with original Ming and Qing-era whitewashed buildings, cobbled lanes, humpbacked bridges and interlocking canals.
Shanghai’s World Expo 2010 is expected to be a tourist bonanza, drawing 70 million visitors between May and October. Shanghai being the polluted, hectic, crowded urban jungle it is, it would be a rare visitor who never felt the urge at some point to escape to fresh air, trees and a bit of peace of quiet. The easiest and most interesting places to get to for a day, a weekend or longer are scattered across the Yangzi River Delta. The nearby cities of Suzhou and Hangzhou are two of the most pleasant in China, and their landscaped gardens and parks will certainly restore your stretched nerves. Both are ideal for a two- or three-day break.
The region west of Shanghai around Tai Hu (Lake Tai) includes some of China’s loveliest countryside. Here you’ll discover centuries-old water villages. Bowed bridges span narrow canals, as traditional oared boats paddle by, creating an almost perfect picture of a way of life long past. A trip to one of these villages will probably be a highlight of your trip to Eastern China.
Be careful which village you choose, though. The tourist dollars that flow in may have saved these villages from the wrecking ball, but they have also changed their character to differing degrees. Those closest to the larger cities can be the most swamped by tour groups. Trekking to an out-of-the-way destination can pay off by letting you find a village that you will have all to yourself.
-
Qibao
This quaint little thousand year old town of Qibao is only about about 18 kilometers from the Shanghai city center and is accessible by subway.
For visitors eager to glimpse a Yangzi River delta water village but who are unable to spare an entire day, the ancient water town of Qibao, located in Minhang District a scant 18km (11.5 miles) southwest of downtown Shanghai, makes for an acceptable if not terribly exciting alternative.
Like many water towns in the area, Qibao was built in the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127), but only came into its own in the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties. Opened as a tourist attraction in 2002, the “old town” (many of the structures are newly built to look old) spans about 2 square kilometers and has the usual narrow alleyways, arched bridges, and canals. Unfortunately, it’s also surrounded by a new town and many ugly modern concrete structures.
Both a blessing and a curse, Qibao’s proximity to downtown Shanghai means that it can be easily reached, but it is also overrun with tourists, making a relaxed leisurely visit (the ideal way to see a water town) all but impossible. From downtown Shanghai, you can take Tourist Bus A (¥2/25¢, 1 hr.) from the Shanghai Sightseeing Bus Center at the Shanghai Stadium to Qibao.
Alternatively, take Metro Line 1 to Xinzhuang Station and walk 200 meters to the intersection of Humin Lu and Qixin Lu; take Bus 91 in the Beixinjing direction and get off at Qibao Zhen station. A taxi from downtown Shanghai will cost around ¥70/$9. There is no longer an admission fee to the old town, only separate admissions fees (¥5-¥10/60¢-$1.25) at select sights.
-
Zhouzhuang
Many of Zhouzhuang's charming restaurants evoke the past with traditional music (Suzhou Pingtan: storytelling and singing in local dialect) and decor.
The most famous of the water villages is undoubtedly Zhouzhuang. Its fame is partly due to its proximity, just 45 minutes from Suzhou and an hour away from Shanghai. As a result, more than 2.5 million visitors head to the water village of Zhouzhuang each year to catch a glimpse of old China. Its charm is reduced by the sheer number of tourists who elbow their way through the streets. Next to the “ancient memorial archway,” which isn’t ancient at all, is a ticket window. The steep entrance fee of Y100 gets you into the water village-turned-gift shop.
Songshu Guiyu (Mandarin Fish): Cuisine near Shanghai is often sweet to taste and beautifully presented.
Crowds aside, Zhouzhuang is fun for families. Several residences, some 500 years old, let you see what life was like in the Ming and Qing dynasties. There are several storefronts where you can see brick making, bamboo carving, and basket weaving—traditional crafts that up until recently were in widespread use throughout the countryside. The food is typical country fare, making it a nice break from the fancier cuisine of Suzhou and Shanghai. The most famous dish, a fatty cut of pork leg, is a bit oily for most Western palates. But there are also pickled vegetables and wild greens to sample. For crafts, skip the snuff bottles and teapots, which are of low quality. Opt for something you probably won’t find elsewhere: homemade rice wine, rough-hewn ox-horn combs, and bamboo rice baskets.
Buses to Zhouzhuang leave from Suzhou’s North Bus station every half hour between 7 AM and 5 PM. The 1½-hour trip is ¥15 to ¥25. From Shanghai, There are Zhou Zhuang buses leaving Shanghai Indoor Stadium Sightseeing Bus Terminal every morning.
-
Tongli
One of the main attraction of Tongli is Tuisi Yuan, a gorgeous garden built by a retired official in 1886 as a place to retreat and mediate.The pick of the water villages is Tongli,30 minutes from Zhouzhuang and 1½ hours from Suzhou. There’s a more reasonable entrance fee of ¥60. A number of locals still live and work here, making this village seem more authentic than Zhouzhuang. The streets are cobbled, and the complete absence of cars make Tongli feel like it’s from a different era. You can still find yourself wandering on quaint side streets or creeping down impossibly narrow alleyways that open onto canals and bridges. Tongli is the largest of the water villages, imminently photographable, and a pleasure to explore.
Near the entrance gate are several private homes offering beds, and throughout the village are tea shops and small tables set out in front of the canals. Hiring a boat (¥60 for up to 6 people) to float down the canals gives you a different perspective on the town.
You have the chance to watch a cormorant fishing show in Tongli
A favorite spot in Tongli is Tuisi Garden, a slightly smaller version of the private courtyard parks found in Suzhou. Tongli is also home to the Ancient Chinese Sexual Culture Museum (0512/6332-2973, www.chainsexmuseum.com (Chinese only)), housed in a former girl’s school. The controversial exhibition of ancient erotic toys and art is the project of a retired university professor.
Buses to Tongli leave from the square in front of Suzhou Train Station every 20 to 30 minutes between 7 AM and 5 PM. The journey is Y6 to Y10. From Shanghai, there are Tongli buses (2 hr., ¥120/$15 round-trip, includes ¥80/$6.25 entrance fee) that leave the Shanghai Sightseeing Bus Center (Gate 25 of the Shanghai Stadium/Shanghai Tiyuguan) daily at 9, 9:55 and 10:25am. Departure times may change so call ahead (tel. 021/6426-5555) to confirm. From Tongli, buses return to Shanghai at 4:45, 5:30, and 6pm.)
-
Luzhi
Narrow waterways and traditional arched bridges add to Luzhi's appeal
Even farther off the beaten path is Luzhi,about a half hour from Suzhou and Zhouzhuang. It has been described as a “museum of bridges.” There are over 40 here, in all different shapes and sizes. Many of the older women in the village preserve traditional customs, wearing traditional headdresses and skirts. Luzhi is also notable for the spectacular Baosheng Temple (Luzhi. 0512/6501-0067), a yellow-walled compound that is famous for its breathtaking collection of Buddhist arhats. Arranged on a wall of stone, these clay sculptures are the work of Yang Huizhi, a famous Tang Dynasty sculptor. They depict Buddhist disciples who have gained enlightenment; these works, made over 1,000 years ago, impart the character and artistry of their creator. The temple also features a well-preserved bell from the end of the Ming Dynasty.
Luzhi-bound buses leave from the square in front of Suzhou Train Station every 30 minutes between 6:30 AM and 6:30 PM. The 40-minute drive is Y10. From Shanghai, you can take Shanghai Sightseeing Bus at Shanghai Indoor Stadium Bus Terminal on Saturday and Sunday.
The sleepy water town offers a great escape from the razzle-dazzle of the city.
Related Articles about Shanghai:
Exploring Water Towns of Jiangnan
Taste of Shanghai – A Guide to Shanghai’s Best Food
Attractions 景点, Culture 文化, English, Feature, Guide 指南, Travel 旅游 Luzhi, Qibao, Shanghai, Suzhou, Tongli, water town, Zhouzhuang12 responses to “Exploring the Water Villages – Excursions from Shanghai”
-
I’ll be back again, thanks for the info.
-
trial offer April 16th, 2010 at 14:01
I can see that you are an expert at your field! I am launching a website soon, and your information will be very useful for me.. Thanks for all your help and wishing you all the success in your business.
-
Susan Boyle Club April 19th, 2010 at 12:26
We have been invited to visit Shanghai during the World Expo. Good share,you article about Water Villages very great, very useful for us…thank you
-
lhuang April 22nd, 2010 at 07:45
Hey I think you have a great blog going here, I found it on Bing and plan on returning regularly for the information that you all are providing.
-
Yannou Cherruau April 23rd, 2010 at 01:32
Wuzhen – Une petite Venise de l’Orient
magnifique escapade hors de Shanghai (150 km au Sud) vers le vieux village traditionnel de Wuzhen. Shanghai est entourree de ces villages d’eau, tel Suzhou, et il est facile de trouver un tour semis-organises d’une journee ou deux pour vous y emmener.
Wuzhen est un des villages les plus anciens, fonde plus de 600 ans BC. Ces maisons de bois et de pierres se succedent le long des caneaux ou des petites piroges circulent, site historique très bien conservé, avec de nombreux points d’intérêt historiques et culturels. Pour flâner, en se laissant doubler par les groupes de touristes chinois, très nombreux comme partout. Plus authentique et moins commerciale que sa voisine Zhouzhuang.
Il y a deux sites bien exploités de Wuzhen: Dongzha ( village clos est ) et Xizha( village clos ouest ). A Dongzha, on se promène dans un monde d’il y a quelques cents ans et sent la vie douce de cette-époque là. A Xizha, on a exploité les anciennes maisons comme des hotels de luxe.
Wuzhen est bien connu pour son acquis historique et culturel. Mao Dun, un des auteurs modernistes des années 30, a été soutenu ici. Il y a un certain nombre d’emplacements historiques ici dans le village de Wuzhen, une étant l’étape antique dans le temple de Xiuzhen Taoist. Construit en 1749, il résume l’architecture méridionale typique de ville de l’eau de la Chine, comportant les toits à pignon, les gouttières retournées et les faisceaux stratifiés. Ses muraux, sculptures en argile et woodcarvings vifs et réalistes dépeignent des scènes des opéras traditionnels, et sont des chefs d’oeuvre d’art folklorique.
-
Fabio V. April 23rd, 2010 at 04:35
Another nice canal town would be Xitang. Visited this beautiful water village that was used as a setting for Tom Cruise’s movie Mission Impossible III and we didn’t regret our choice for a side trip from Shanghai.
The little old town, although not as obscure as before the movie, didn’t fail to charm us. The food is quite exotic for the average taste but is worth a try for the adventurous palate. Tourists are now coming over and discovering this remote village but still, from what I heard, is not as busy as the other water towns surrounding Shanghai. We enjoyed riding the small boats while viewing the town from the canals.
All you need is 90 minutes (of travel time) and RMB 30 for a bus ticket from the Shanghai South Train Station.
-
小桥流水，曲径弄幽，粉墙黛瓦，垂柳抚波，这些江南水乡的特征在这里随处可见。与别的水乡不同的是，有一部分民居用木桩或石柱打入河床中，上架横梁，搁上 木板，造成“人在屋中居，屋在水中游”的“水阁”，匠心独具，形成了乌镇特有的景致——枕水人家。
凌晨5点，被老公从床上拎起，……
在晨风中，水阁显出沧桑，但更有了自然和淳朴的味道。我不禁想起了茅盾在散文《大地人家》里写乌镇“……人家的后门外就是河，站在后门口，可以用吊桶打水，午夜梦回，可以听得橹声，飘然而过……”
站在石桥上看河道，水是极其稠绿而浓酽的，带着滑腻的感觉，没有丝毫的透明，如一块上好的绿色绸缎。虽是清 晨，依然有几条乌篷船载着游客划了过来，船夫一竹篙下去，水面便缓缓起了一圈圈涟漪，不急不徐，轻轻地晃开来，幽湿的气息随之流动起来，给人如诗如画的感 觉。也有几只小船静静地泊着，长长的竹篙闲闲地倚在舱里，仿佛在守护着沉睡未醒的小镇。
穿行在古镇在今日看来已显狭窄的街道上，看到的是两边木板 结构的房子一间一间紧挨着向远处延伸，装饰古朴的店铺，精雕细刻的门楼，古色古香的招牌，让人不由自主沉浸在历史的幽径里，脑海里浮现的是岁月风箱里已失 去鲜艳色泽的画面，连呼吸，都有一种陈旧的味道。风沾着湿气，浸润了游人……
看了香山堂、江南百床馆、民俗风情馆、高公生糟坊、木雕馆、蓝印花布染坊、余榴梁钱币馆，我们来到了茅盾故居。这是一所靠街的四开间老式楼房，分为东西两个单元。前后两进，中间各有两个石板天井。和镇上大多数民房一样，沿 街的门面是清一色的活动木板，既不高大也不讲究。进了东面单元的第一进，天井那头又是一个门楼，上面写着“立志书院”，导游说这里是矛盾小时候就读的家 塾。跨进门楼，后进房子是两层的楼房，式样也比较新式，看了过道旁的介绍才知，这是三十年代茅盾用《子夜》一书的稿费亲自设计草图进行翻修的，以后，他几 次回乡都在这里进行写作。西面单元是生活区，有厨房、餐厅、会客厅、卧室等等。旁门上挂着一块牌匾，上面是叶圣陶先生手书“茅盾故居”四个大字。游客们跨 过高高的门槛，在这里流连探寻。矛盾故居在人们纷至沓来的脚步里依然显得一尘不染。时光走了，文学的魅力未走。这座小楼，在古朴的书香里，散发出儒雅的气息。
广场南面过了一个石桥，便是小镇的大门楼，上面写着“乌青毓秀”四个烫金大字，两边是一副对联：寒树烟中，尽乌戍六朝旧地；夕阳帆外，见吴兴 几点江山。古时的昭明太子萧统、南朝人沈约、因杨乃武和小白菜公案而名声大噪的清代翰林夏同善、现代文学巨匠茅盾等等，流逝在岁月里，成为乌镇人引以为道的旧事。这些旧事，在青石板的蜿蜒曲折中铺进了悠远的历史深巷，给这个闲适的古镇注入了深厚的底蕴和沧桑的风采，这才是乌镇最引人之处！
-
CarboriusJim May 9th, 2010 at 18:22
Of all the many water villages near Shanghai, the Song Dynasty town of Nanxun is, for now, my favorite. Besides having it all — a charming mix of traditional houses that back right onto flowing streams, ancient stone arched bridges, narrow cobblestone lanes, friendly residents, and some of the most interesting mansions and estates to be found in any Yangzi water village (for their highly unusual mix of Chinese and Western architectural styles) — sleepy Nanxun was still comparatively free of the usual tourist glitter. Located at the southern edge of Tai Hu (Lake Tai) on the boundary between Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces (it’s officially in the latter), it can be visited as a long day trip from Shanghai or combined with a longer trip to Suzhou or Hangzhou.
The easiest way to reach Nanxun (a 2-2 1/2-hour ride from Shanghai) is by car, whether rented as part of an organized private tour, or separately arranged by your hotel concierge. A cheaper alternative is the daily Nanxun tour bus (2 1/2 hr.; ¥110/$14 round-trip, which includes the ¥60/$7.50 admission ticket) which leaves the Shanghai Sightseeing Bus Center (Gate 25 of the Shanghai Stadium/Shanghai Tiyuguan) at 8:45am and returns at 5pm.
-
Linda1981 May 15th, 2010 at 10:12
Wherever we live, my husband and I love taking side trips to the surrounding areas so we could explore the neighborhoods beyond our abode. This Saturday, after our house guests from the U.S. left for Xian, we decided to check out ZhuJiaJiao, an old water town just an hour outside of Shanghai.
We went to the Shanghai Stadium to buy tickets (15 RMB/one-way) for the bus leaving at 11:10 A.M. but there were no more seats available. So instead of waiting for the 12:00 P.M. bus, we negotiated with a cab driver to take us to ZhuJiaJiao for a set price. The cab ride was only 35 minutes and we arrived before the 12 o’clock bus had even left the Stadium!
We were quite impressed with ZhuJiaJiao. The town is so quaint and serene with its picturesque bridges, canals, gardens, etc. We read that it is better than ZhouZhuang. For one, there are fewer tourists. The entrance fees and prices of food and souvenirs are reasonable and the shop owners and vendors are not aggressive and pushy. We strolled along the narrow lanes lined with small homes and shops. The people of ZhuJiaJiao have such a simple, leisurely life…we kinda envy them. The elderly folks can be found hanging out by the doorway watching people go by or playing majong. They would smile or stop to say hello to us and were as curious about us as we were about them.
Places that we visited included the Animal Releasing Bridge (Fang Sheng Qiao), Ke Zhi Garden (Ke Zhi Yuan), and a traditional Chinese medicine shop that is still in use. We took our time leisurely strolling around town. The further we walked away from the front entrance, the fewer tourists we encountered. Although we did see a few “laowai”, for the most part, the town is not on the “beaten tourist path”.
Our spontaneous trip rewarded us with a glimpse of a pleasant life beyond the hustle and bustle in Shanghai. We plan to be back another day.
-
TYMartin May 16th, 2010 at 05:21
A short trip west of Suzhou, Mudu is another of Jiangsu’s much-touted canal towns, but less touristy than some of its more famous neighbors. The ancient town dates back to the Ming dynasty and was once the haunt of wealthy officials, intellectuals and artists. Mudu’s biggest claim to stardom is declared proudly on a sign near the entrance: ‘Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty (1644–1911) visited six times’. Certainly not the biggest or most interesting of the canal towns, it’s still an appealing enough place for a day trip from Sūzhōu. Within the old town, several of the traditional canal-side homes have been opened to visitors, giving a glimpse of the opulent lifestyles of the Ming and Qing well-to-do. Mudu is best-known for its gardens, inspired by the classical gardens of Suzhou. Like other water towns, the best way to ditch the crowds is to venture into the warren of narrow streets that branch off of the canals and see what you find.
Among the sights in the old town (admission RMB60) are the Bangyan Mansion, the Qing dynasty Hongyin Mountain Villa, where the Emperor Qianlong regularly came to watch opera on its famous stage, and the Yan Family Garden which originally dates back to the Ming. Boat rides convey tourists along Mudu’s canals.
Getting There
From Suzhou, tourist bus 4 runs from the train station to Mudu and costs Y2. Make sure to get off at Mudu Huayuan Zhan, which is across from a small road leading to the main entrance. You’ll see a big sign and a parking lot full of tour buses. The ride takes about 30 minutes.From Shanghai, deluxe buses run from the Shanghai Stadium directly to Mudu. They leave at 7.20am and 8.10am and leave Mudu at 4pm for the return trip. Tickets cost Y110. Alternatively, you can take a bus or train to Suzhou and switch to bus 4 at the train station.
-
Lorenzo_Mosca May 17th, 2010 at 00:38
Venezia d’oriente
Partenza in auto per Tongli e Zhouzhang due paesini sulla strada per Shanghai. Caratteristici per i loro canali, ponti, casette in pietra sull’acqua stile “Venezia”. Visitiamo anche due giardini e due case molto carine, immerse in callette piene di negozietti. Il tutto un po’ troppo turistico, ma ne è valsa la pena!!!
-
上海周辺の水郷古鎮（周荘、同里、用直、烏鎮、西塘、南潯）
周荘
周荘は上海と蘇州の間に位置して、蘇州から約38キロメートル、上海から約80キロメートルであり、中国有名な画家の呉冠中は周庄の美しさを「中国水郷の綺麗さを納める」と賛美しました、海外の新聞は「周庄が中国第一の水郷である」とも賛美しております。 周庄は約9百年の歴史を持っていて、豊富な文化の含みもあり、西晋の文学者の張翰、唐代の詩人の劉禹錫、陸亀蒙などの歴代名人がここに住んだことがある。周庄も元末明初の江南の巨富の沈万三の故郷である；周庄は典型的な江南水鎮なので、ここで撮影する各種の映画とドラマは40数冊がある。橋、川、小屋が水郷の特色で、周庄の河川は「井」の字形になっており、町の中から横切って、“咫尺の往来も全て船”，誰の家でも埠頭がある。周庄のアーチ型の古石橋：富安橋（1355年）、貞豊橋（13世紀中叶）、太平橋（1522-1566年）、双橋（世德橋、永安橋）（1573-1679 年）、全功橋（1646年）、福洪橋（16世紀中叶）、普慶橋（1726年）、通秀橋（1774年）、梯曇橋（1764年）、隆興橋1464-1487年（1994年再建）、報恩橋1711年（1993年再建）、蜆園橋（1993年再建）、青龍橋（1993年再建）同里
同里 蘇州から18キロメートル、上海から80キロメートルにある水郷の町、周庄、用直、烏鎮、西塘、南潯と並び、中国江南6大水郷と讃えられる。街は宋代から発展を遂げ、元、明代には江南地方の中でも大きな村のひとつとなった。街には1000年近い歴史を持つ石橋なども残っており、水路と住居が一体となった古い町並びは、江南の特徴を持つ、映画のロケ地としてもよく使われている。 同里で最も有名なのが退思園である、清の時代に作られた庭園形式の邸宅です。本園は池を中心に、楼閣や回廊がそれを取り巻くように立てられていて、水上に浮かんでいるように見えるため、貼水園とも呼ばれている。このほかに、同里二堂「嘉蔭堂、崇本堂」、同里三橋「太平橋、吉利橋、長慶橋」もすばらしい見所である。用直
用直蘇州から18キロメートル、上海から58キロメートルにある水郷の町、周庄、同里、烏鎮、西塘、南潯と並び、中国江南6大水郷と讃えられる。2500年以上の歴史を持つ古い街であり、1300年の銀杏の木も街の長い歴史を物語っている、水路が迷路のように巡り、その水路の上には72の石橋がかかっている。街全体が昔の面影を現在に伝えており、街中をぶらぶら歩いてみましょう。このほかには保聖寺という名刹がある。本院は503年に創建された江南で有名な寺院のひとつ。明の時代末に立てられた天王殿の後ろにある古物館には、宋代につくられた羅漢塑像などが納められている。かなり貴重な文物で、ぜひ行って見ましょう。烏鎮
烏鎮は上海市と杭州市の中間あたりに位置する水郷、京杭大運河はここを通り流れています、鎮の南北に「市河」が流れ、鎮内に水路網が広がって、支流縦横に；千百年以来、民家は河のそばに建てられて、 モデルの江南の水郷の風情を形成されている。「東市河」一帯が最も昔の面影を残している所で、烏鎮観光の中心となっている。烏鎮が古来よりにぎやかであり、民間の風俗も質朴で、花鼓劇、影絵芝居などの独特な民俗風情が濃厚な水郷の雰囲気を体現している。ここは美しい自然環境があり、人材も次々と出る、梁昭明太子がここに館を建って本を呼ぶから、近代有名な文学者の茅盾まで、おおい文人と有名な古跡を残されました。もし舟に乗ってここを巡って、烏鎮静かな雰囲気を感じて、江南の水郷の美しさも感じられます。 民俗間、江南百床館、江南木彫陳列館など、江南の伝統文化がよく理解できる博物館も点在している、一見の価値がある。西塘
西塘鎮は上海市と浙江省の境に位置している、ほかの水郷古鎮が大規模な観光開発されているのに対して、ここは昔ながらの状態を残っている。最も特色あるのが川沿いの道は全部屋根があり、日照強いときでも雨のときでも端から端までゆっくりと散策できます、100年前の面影を色濃く残す水郷を歩いていると、はじめて来たのにとても懐かしい感じがしてくる。ホテルもあるので宿泊してみれば、特別な江南体験になります。南潯
南潯は浙江省歴史文化の名鎮であり、湖州市に位置して、江蘇省呉江県の辺境を接して、面積は34平方キロメートルで、人口は約5万人で、1991年、南潯は浙江省の歴史文化名鎮の一番と表彰されております。南潯水郷の風光は美しく、嘉業堂の蔵書閣、劉氏小蓮庄、張氏適園などが現存する古典の庭園がある。元代石獅、清朝の石牌坊、古塔はおよび天下の奇石「美人照鏡」という石、鷹石があり、昔の風采を展示されている。諺により「上に極楽があり、下に蘇州と杭州があり、中間は南潯である」ことを讃えられている。南潯へ旅行すれば、江南水郷、名士の故郷、豊かな絹織物など、心を浄化するでしょう。
Leave a reply
-
Rina Versteegh April 11th, 2010 at 08:51